Vikipeedia:GLAM/Traditional Livonian Clothing/en/1

| Introduction | Main Garments | Headgear | Hosiery and Footwear | Handwear | Other Costume Accessories | Bridal Attire | Photographic Evidence |
exhibition in the Traditional Livonian Clothing
This section of the virtual exhibition features main garments of Livonian dress from the collections of the National Museum of Finland and the Estonian National Museum.
From these garments, it is possible to assemble a basic set of traditional Livonian women’s clothing (from the 1840s–1860s) and a corresponding set of men’s clothing dating to the late 19th century. To complete the outfits, headgear, footwear, and other accessories are required—these can be explored in the following sections of the virtual exhibition.
The artefacts here are arranged so that the women’s garments appear first: shirts, bodice, jacket, skirts, aprons, and shoulder shawls. The exhibition also includes fragments of women’s skirts and shoulder shawls, which provide a basis for reconstructing complete garments.
The clothing items shown here do not all date from the same period and therefore represent different stages in the development of Livonian dress. For example, most of the skirts belong to clothing sets typical of the 1840s–1860s, while the women's jacket, as well as the men's waistcoat and jacket—each sewn from black woollen fabric—date to the late 19th or early 20th century, by which time traditional dress had largely disappeared from everyday use. The women’s shoulder shawls also illustrate a range of development stages: the oldest are natural white rectangular woollen shawls, while the square-shaped shoulder scarves date to the end of the 19th century.
The red jacquard bodice is stylistically similar to one depicted in the materials from the 1846 ethnographic expedition by the artist Pezold, allowing us to date this bodice to the 1840s. The traditional Livonian women’s outfit also included an apron; two examples of white aprons typical of festive dress are presented here. It is also worth noting that the women’s shirts are constructed from two types of fabric, with the upper section sewn to a lower part made of coarser cloth. These long shirts likely extended below the wearer’s knees.
- Traditional festive linen shirt worn by Livonian women, collected by Emil Nestor Setälä on the Livonian coast in 1912 in Sikrags. Antell's Collection, Finno-Ugric Collection of the National Museum of Finland. Original artefact: Setälä, E. N. paita; naisten paita. SU4920:15.
- Traditional Livonian women's linen shirt. Collected by Oskar Loorits on the Livonian Coast in Pitrags (Pitrõg) in 1925. Finno-Ugric Artefact Collection of the Estonian National Museum. Original artefact: särk, naiste, ERM B 17:1, Eesti Rahva Muuseum, http://www.muis.ee/museaalview/635778 ERM B 17:1.
- Traditional Livonian women's bodice, collected by A. O. Heikel in 1902 in Mazirbe. Antell's Collection, Finno-Ugric Collection of the National Museum of Finland. Original artefact: Heikel, A. O. liivi; naisen liivi; bodice. SU4106:411.
- Traditional festive woollen jacket worn by Livonian women, collected by Emil Nestor Setälä on the Livonian coast in 1912 in Sīkrags (Sikrog). Antell's Collection, Finno-Ugric Collection of the National Museum of Finland. Original artefact: Setälä, E. N. puku; jacket; röijy. SU4920:16.
- Traditional Livonian women's woollen jacket. Collected by Oskar Loorits on the Livonian Coast in Pitrags (Pitrõg) in 1925. Finno-Ugric Artefact Collection of the Estonian National Museum. Original artefact: kampsun, naiste, ERM B 17:3, Eesti Rahva Muuseum, http://www.muis.ee/museaalview/635780 ERM B 17:3.
- Traditional Livonian women's festive woollen skirt, collected by A. O. Heikel in 1902 in Miķeļtornis (Piza). Antell's Collection, Finno-Ugric Collection of the National Museum of Finland. Original artefact: Heikel, A. O. hame; skirt; raitainen hame. SU4106:383.
- Traditional Livonian women's festive woollen skirt, collected by Emil Nestor Setälä on the Livonian coast in 1912 in Sīkrags (Siikrog). Antell's Collection, Finno-Ugric Collection of the National Museum of Finland. Original artefact: Setälä, E. N. hame; vyötäröhame. SU4920:17.
- Traditional Livonian women's festive woollen skirt. Collected by Oskar Loorits on the Livonian Coast in 1924. Finno-Ugric Artefact Collection of the Estonian National Museum. Original artefact: seelik, ERM B 8:84, Eesti Rahva Muuseum, http://www.muis.ee/museaalview/633039 ERM B 8:84.
- Traditional Livonian women's festive woollen skirt. Collected by Oskar Loorits on the Livonian Coast in Košrags (Koštrõg) in 1924. Finno-Ugric Artefact Collection of the Estonian National Museum. Original artefact: seelik, ERM B 8:85, Eesti Rahva Muuseum, http://www.muis.ee/museaalview/633040 ERM B 8:85.
- Fabric of a woman's skirt, fragment. Linen warp, woollen weft. Collected by A. O. Heikel in 1901 in Miķeļtornis (Piza). Antell's Collection, Finno-Ugric Collection of the National Museum of Finland. Original artefact: Heikel, A. O. kangas; hamekangas. SU4106:389.
- Fabric from a traditional Livonian women's festive woollen skirt. Collected by Ferdinand Linnus (Leinbock) on the Livonian Coast in Lielirbe (Iira) in 1928. Finno-Ugric Artefact Collection of the Estonian National Museum. Original artefact: seelikuriie, katkend, ERM B 18:9, Eesti Rahva Muuseum, http://www.muis.ee/museaalview/635798 ERM B 18:9.
- Traditional Livonian festive apron collected by Emil Nestor Setälä on the Livonian coast in 1912 in Sikrags. Antell's Collection, Finno-Ugric Collection of the National Museum of Finland. Original artefact: Setälä, E. N. puku; apron. SU4920:18.
- Traditional festive Livonian women's silk apron. Collected by Oskar Loorits on the Livonian Coast in Pitrags (Pitrõg) in 1925. Finno-Ugric Artefact Collection of the Estonian National Museum. Original artefact: põll, ERM B 10:18, Eesti Rahva Muuseum, http://www.muis.ee/museaalview/633062 ERM B 10:18.
- Traditional Livonian women's woollen festive shawl, usually worn around the shoulders. Collected by Oskar Loorits on the Livonian Coast in Pitrags (Pitrõg) in 1924. Finno-Ugric Artefact Collection of the Estonian National Museum. Original artefact: kõrik, ERM B 8:76, Eesti Rahva Muuseum, http://www.muis.ee/museaalview/633031 ERM B 8:76.
- Traditional Livonian women's woollen shoulder shawl from 1830-1840, collected by A. O. Heikel in Miķeļtornis (Piza). Antell's Collection, Finno-Ugric Collection of the National Museum of Finland. Original artefact: Heikel, A. O. shawl; huivi; hartiahuivi. SU4106:384.
- Traditional Livonian women's woollen shoulder shawl, collected by A. O. Heikel in 1901 in Miķeļtornis (Piza). Antell's Collection, Finno-Ugric Collection of the National Museum of Finland. Original artefact: Heikel, A. O. hartiahuivi; huivi. SU4106:385.
- Traditional Livonian women's woollen festive shawl, usually worn around the shoulders, collected by Emil Nestor Setälä on the Livonian coast in 1912 in Sikrags. Antell's Collection, Finno-Ugric Collection of the National Museum of Finland. Original artefact: Setälä, E. N. kaulaliina. SU4920:12.
- Fabric of a woman's shawl, fragment. Collected by A. O. Heikel in 1901 in Miķeļtornis (Piza). Antell's Collection, Finno-Ugric Collection of the National Museum of Finland. Original artefact: Heikel, A. O. kangas; vaippakangas. SU4106:390.
These are followed by men’s garments: shirts, vest or waistcoat, and short coat or jacket. The men's waistcoat and jacket—both sewn from black woollen fabric—date to the late 19th or early 20th century, by which time traditional dress had largely disappeared from everyday use. These garments were made by professional tailors, while linen shirts for men were still usually sewn by women at home. As a result, the shirts preserved their older traditional form and sewing techniques.
- Traditional handwoven and handsewn Livonian men’s linen shirt, made at the end of the 19th century. It is made of coarse, unbleached linen fabric and decorated with embroidery. Collected by the Finnish ethnographer Emil Nestor Setälä in 1912 in the village of Sīkrags (Siikrog) on the Livonian Coast. Original artefact: Setälä, E. N. paita; miesten paita. SU4920:14.
- Livonian men's woollen shirt, collected by A. O. Heikel on the Livonian coast in 1901 in Mazirbe (Ire). Antell's Collection, Finno-Ugric Collection of the National Museum of Finland. Original artefact: Heikel, A. O. man's shirt; paita; miehen paita. SU4106:405.
- Traditional Livonian men's linen shirt. Collected by Oskar Loorits on the Livonian Coast in Pitrags (Pitrõg) in 1925. Finno-Ugric Artefact Collection of the Estonian National Museum. Original artefact: särk, meeste, ERM B 17:2, Eesti Rahva Muuseum, http://www.muis.ee/museaalview/635779 ERM B 17:2.
- Traditional Livonian men's woollen vest. Collected by Oskar Loorits on the Livonian Coast in Pitrags (Pitrõg) in 1925. Finno-Ugric Artefact Collection of the Estonian National Museum. Original artefact: vest, meeste, ERM B 17:6, Eesti Rahva Muuseum, http://www.muis.ee/museaalview/635783 ERM B 17:6.
- Traditional Livonian men's woollen jacket with bone buttons. Collected by Oskar Loorits on the Livonian Coast in Pitrags (Pitrõg) in 1925. Finno-Ugric Artefact Collection of the Estonian National Museum. Original artefact: vammus, pihtkuub, meeste, ERM B 17:5, Eesti Rahva Muuseum, http://www.muis.ee/museaalview/635782 ERM B 17:5.
- Prepared by: Reprex
- Curators: Ieva Pigozne, Daniel Antal, and Asmah Federico
- ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS: Reprex.nl
The preparation of exhibition was supported by the National Museum of Finland and the Estonian National Museum.